T
tractorboy924
Member
Hearth Supporter
- Jul 7, 2008
- 77
- Western NY
- Oct 11, 2016
- #1
Im gonna see how this year goes but coming from wood I had hot and cold spots in the house. main source of heat. im thinking I may want to install a thermostat if I can next year or so. USSC said I could add a milivolt type thermostat..
Anyone ever hook up one and can give me a better idea of how to do it and what a millivolt thermostat is now to ensure I get a millolt thermo. I rather know how to do it now vs waiting as I will have the info. I will be watching closely to see how even the heat is.
Thank you all
FirepotPete
Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
- Oct 25, 2010
- 735
- Titletown U.S.A
- Oct 11, 2016
- #2
The red arrow is pointing to where there should be a jumper installed on your board, "TSTAT".
In this pic it's the little gray jumper. So you remove that jumper and connect the wireless receiver to the terminals. The receiver is then mounted to the outside of the stove.
Then you can place the thermostat around the room or where ever you feel to get an idea how the heat is moving through the house.
Last edited:
tractorboy924
Member
Hearth Supporter
- Jul 7, 2008
- 77
- Western NY
- Oct 12, 2016
- #3
ok so once the jumper is removed and you install terminals for thermostat..you set stove to manual and she should run off the thermostat then???
or dont you even have to change the manual / auto setting?? I did find out from reading the jumper needs removal.
thank you firepot Pete...
FirepotPete
Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
- Oct 25, 2010
- 735
- Titletown U.S.A
- Oct 12, 2016
- #4
tractorboy924 said:
ok so once the jumper is removed and you install terminals for thermostat..you set stove to manual and she should run off the thermostat then???
or dont you even have to change the manual / auto setting?? I did find out from reading the jumper needs removal.
thank you firepot Pete...
One step at a time, just so I'm clearer.
The first and most important issue is to have a ground strap to your body when handling the board or any part of it. You can use any conductive material (old single wire) and wrap it around your wrist and then the other end to a ground. That could be a water pipe or use the ground in a receptacle if you are comfortable using that. You need some how to discharge any static from your body. Also make sure the stove is unplugged.
When attaching the thermostat receiver to the board run the wire through a vent or drill a hole on the side of the stove to route the wires through, leaving the actual receiver on the outside of the stove.
The manual/auto settings on the stove only change the RF (room fan), DF (draft fan) and agitator speeds, not the HR settings. The HR feed rates will remain the same in manual or auto unless you go and change them on the board itself. So the manual/auto setting on the stove is up to you at this point.
What you will have on the thermostat receiver will be either ON/OFF or OFF/Manual/Auto or some controls labeled like that. The one I had (piece of junk in two years) had OFF/Manual/Auto on it. OFF would do just that, the receiver no longer sent out a signal to the transmitter (thermostat where you set the temp) and saved on batteries. Manual would keep the receiver and transmitter in contact but would allow me to manually adjust the stove from the board. Auto would lock out the board and only change the HR from the signal it was receiving.
Once you have everything hooked up you will want to set your stove HR at the lowest setting you are comfortable with, not room temp comfort but how low you are comfortable will allowing the stove to ramp down and still burn good. Also you will need to keep in mind that these stoves do not reheat as quickly as a forced air system. You may find that while your stove is burning OK on HR2 it might take way to long for it to ramp up to a higher HR to warm the house fast enough. If that's the case then you will need to set the stove at a higher HR to maintain a warmer temp in the area.
